Button hole stitching machine



(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet I.v

J. H. REED.

ABUTTOIN HOLE STITGHING MAGHINE. No. 357537. Patented Feb. 8, 1887.

WITNEEEEE INVENTUF I 6 Sheets' Shet 2. J. H. REED.

BUTTON HOLE -STITGHING MACHINE.

(No Model.)

Patented Feb. 8, 1887.

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(No Model.) y 6 Sheets-Sheet 3.

J. H. REED.

BUTTON HOLE STITGHING MAGHINE. V No. 357,537. Patented Feb. 8, 1887. r

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6 Sheet-Sheet 4.

Pa tentedPeb.8,1887.

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'J.-H. REED. BUTTON HOLE STITCHING MAGHINE.

(No Model.)

WITNEEEEE (No Model.) i 6 Sheets-Sheet 5. J H. REED.

' BUTTON HOLE STITCHING MAGHINE.

No. 357.537. Patented Feb. 8, 1887.

(Nd Model.) 6 Sheets- Sheet 6.

J. H. REED.

BUTTON HOLE STITCHING MACHINE. v

No. 357,'537. Patented Feb. 8, 1887.

WITNEESEE. I?

V (kiE j t i NITED STATES PATENT BUTTO'N-HOLE-STITCHING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 357,537, dated February8, 1887.

Application filed October 7. 1886. Serial No. 215.520.

To all whom it mar/y 0072067 71,.-

Be it known that I, JAMES H. REED, of Lynn, in the county of Essex andState of Massachusetts, a citizen of the United States, have invented anew and useful Improvement in Button-Hole-Stitching Machines, of whichthe following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference beinghad to the accom-` panying drawings,forming a part of thisspecification,in explaining its nature.

The invention is in some respects an improvement upon that described inLetters Patent of the United States granted E. M. Phelps, No. 344,(378,dated June 29, 18 6; and it relates especially to means, substantiallyas hereinafter indicated, for stitching the sides and eye of thebutton-hale, and for automatically sewing the bar across the rear endthereof, or

that end opposite the eye.

It further relates to mechanism, substantially as herein indicated,whereby the barring operation of the machine follows the stitching ofthe sides and eye of the button-bole without stopping the machine-thatis, the operation of stitching the sides and eye and of barring arecontinuous and automatic.

It further relates to means, substantially as herein specified, fordisconnecting the devices for Operating the clamp-plate feed from saidfeeding mechanism, so that the feed of the clamp-plate is automaticallystopped during the operation of barring the button-hole.

It further relates to the employment of a clanp-plate pin as a pivotupon which the clamp-plate is reciprocated or oscillated during thebarring of the button-hole.

lt further relates to the mechanism or devices for automaticallyengaging the clampplate, and reciprocating or oscillating it after thesides and eye of the button-hole have been stitched, and moving the workforward and back beneath the needle.

It further relates to an automatic tripping device whereby thefeed-pawlfor Operating the clamp-plate feed is caused to be tripped, or to be.held from the ratchet-wheel by the action of the clamp-plate or contactof the clamp-plate with the stop.

It further relates to an automatic tripping device operated by theclamp-plate for bringing into action avibrating or oscillating block orpin, for vbrating, oscillating,or reciprocat- (No model.)

ing the clamp-plate, and for the purposes of forming the bar.

It further relates to nechanism for returning the stop and vibratingclamp-plate barring pin or block to their original or normal positions.

It further relates to means for adjusting the tripping-block, wherebythe length of the button-hole to be stitched may be fixed, and of anindicator and scale used in connection with this adj ustable stop forthe purpose of indicating to the operator the extent of movement whichit is desired to give the stop in order to secure a stit-chedbutton-hole of a given length.

It further relates to an adjustable stop at the front end of theclamp-plate guiding-slot for regulating and adjusting the position fromwhich the clamp-plate shall start, and against which its pin is broughtin contact upon moving it baclrward at the completion of the stitchirgof a button-hole and 'preparatory to stitching another.

It further relates to various details of construction, all of which willhereinafter be eX- plained.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 is a View of the machine in verticalsection on the line x a: of Fig. 5, representing the clamp-plate asengaged with the device for automatically reciprocating or moving itintermittingly during the operation of barring or staying the end of thebutton-hole. Fig. 2 is a plan View of the machine, the clamp-platebeneath the workplate, a portion of the bed being broken out to show apart of the operative mechanism beneath. Fig. 3 is a view in verticalsection upon the line y y of Fig. 5, showing the position of theclamp-plate and its guiding-pin in relation to the feeding mechanismwhile it is being reciprocated or moved to bar or staythe button-bole.Fig. 4 is a plan View of a portion of the olan'p-plate and of thework-plate, showing in full and dotted lnes the extent of movement ofthe clamp-plate and material in the operation of barring or staying theend. of the button-hole. Fig; 5 is a plan view showing the position ofthe clamping-plate and clamp at the beginning of the stitchingoperation. Fig. 6 is a view in plan of the clampplate inverted( Fgs. 7and 8 are detail views, in section,to further illustrate theConstruction and operation of the devices for moving or IOO oseillatingthe clamp-plate in barring or staying button-holes. Fg. 9 is a plan viewof the operative devices below the bed-plate of the machine inverted.Figs. 10, 11, 12, and 13 illustrate the Construction and operation ofthe feed-pawl tripping or disengaging devices hereinafter described.Fig. 14 is a plan view of a complete button-hole,showing the stay or barat the end. Fig. 15 is a'section upon the line x x of Fig. 14. Fig. 16is a perspective view of the clamp-plate-engaging device hereinafterdescribed. Fig. 17 is a vertical section of the throat-plate andwork-plate immediately adjacent.

The mechanisn for Operating the needlebar, the throat-plate, theelamp-plate feeding device, and stiteh-forming devices are like orsimilar to those described in the said Phelps application, and need notfurther be specifically referred to hei-ein.

A is the needle-bar of the machine; a, the needle; B, the work-plate,which is like that described in said application, and which has aclamp-plate-guiding slot, b,like that therein described.

b' is the spring-held roll, which bears against the edge of theelanp-plate.

C is the clamp-plate, which has the springpi n c arranged to enter theclamp-plate slot b.

c c are the clamp-plate feed-wheels.

At or near the :rear or back end of the clampplate slot I there isarranged a movable block or tripping-stop, D, so placed as to be movedby the edge of the clamp-plate to trip the feed- Operating devices.Thisstop is supported by the plate d horizontally adjustable in theplate d'. This plate d' is shaped in plan as represented in Fig. 2-thatis, it has the end bar,

` (P, and the two side bars, d d and it is held or supported in ashallow recess between the bed B' and the work-plate B, the edges of theside bars hearing against the side edges of the recess. The plate d'also has the slots d d through which the screws for fastening thework-plate to the bed pass, and it is connected by means of the stud dextending from the side bar (1 through the hole d in the bedplate withslide bar d, which is arranged to slide or be moved in suitable bearingsupon the under surface of the bed against the stress of the spring D',and has a slot, d which receives the end of the stud d which is ascrewstud provided with the nut d", and by means of which and the slotthe position of the slideplate d' in relation to the stud is varied. Theslide-plate d' carries at its rear end an arm, d, which supports alaterally-extending thin curved piece of metal, d, so shaped andarranged as to cover upon the movement of the slide-bar the teeth of thefeed ratchet-wheel d, or that wheel with which the reciprocatingfeed-pawl engages in Operating the feed rolls or wheels c' 0 (See Figs.10, ll, 12. and 13.)

The feed-pawl is arranged to ride off the ratchet-wheel upon itsbackward movement onto a thin plate,d extending over the ratchetteeth,and the movable ratchet-teeth-coverng plate d has one end extendi ngunder this fixed plate d so that wheh it is pushed in to cover theratchetwheel teeth the pawl, upon its forward feed movement, rides fromthe stationary plate onto this other plate, and is held thereby fromengaging with the ratchet-teeth. It is therefore obvions that upon themovement of this covering-plate or pawl-disengaging device into positionover the ratchet-whcel the pawl no longer acts to operate the feed rollsor wheels, and that they must therefore become stationary and remainstationary until the covering-plate has been withdrawn'; and it isobvious that by thus disengagiug the feed- Operating pawl, so that thefeed is stopped, the sewing or stitching operation of the machine canstill continue, and this is, in fact, the operation of the machine.After the disengagement of the feed-pawl from the feed ratchetwheel theclamp-plate is immediately vibrated or oseillated to move the end of thebuttonhole back and' forth beneath the needle, which continues itsstitching and forms a bar or stay across the end of the button-hole, asmany cross-stitches being taken as may he desired.

To bring into operation devices for providing the clanping-plate withthis oseillating or reciprocating movement, I connect the tripping-stopD, by means of its holding-plate d' and the side bar d* thereof, with anintermittingly oscillating or vibrating pin, E, which is verticallymovable in the bed and workplate of the machine, and which is heldlatched down until it is necessary to bring it into engagement with awall or shoulder of the clampplate, or formed upon an arm attachedthereto, when it is automatically released or unlatched and moved upwardsufficiently to bring its end into operative contact with said surfaceor shoulder. It preferably is shaped as represented in Fig. 16. It hasthe doWnward-extending section or stud e, which enters the guide-hole e'in its holding-block e It has the enlarged section 6 which fits theenlarged portion e* of the hole in its holding-block. Between theshoulder 6 and the under surface of this enlarged portion e is arrangeda coiled spring, 6 which surrounds the post and serves to lift it upwardwhen it is released, as hereinafter explained. To this enlarged portionthere is attached or formed thereon a latchblock, 6 which extendswithout the hole and upon which the end of the side bar d* closes tohold the pin in its lowest position and against the Stress of thelifting-spring.

From the enlarged section e of the device extends upward, through a slotin the workplate, the pin E. The pin-holding block is constantlyreciprocated during the operation of the machine, at intervals, by meansof the sliding bar 6 which carries the block supporting the spring-pin,which may be integral therewith or attached thereto, the bent lever epivoted at e the link e, connecting one arm of the lever with theslide-bar, and the cam e, which receives the cam-pin e upon the otherarni of the lever.

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The clamp-plate has the lateral extension e" (see Figs. l and 6) formedintegral therewith or arranged separate and attached thereto, which hasa recess, 6 to form a shoulder or vertical surface or abutment, c' Italso has the inclined surface c", the ofiice of which is to depress orthrow down the vibrating pin E after the barring has been' completed andupon' the movement of the clamp-plate back to its original position.

I would here remark that the back ward movement of the tripping-stop Dserves to bring into operative position the vibrating or reciprocatingpin E, but by so doing is itself locked back from operative position bythe pin, and that before it can be returned again to operative positionit is necessary that the vibrating pin shall be depressed or moved outof operative position, and that this movement of the pin brings intooperation the automatic latching-down or looking device which holds thepin depressed, and which also brings into operative position or movesforward the tripping-stop.

The back-tripping stop, as before mentioned, preferably is madeadjustable in the plate d asitspositionin the clamp-plateslotdeterminesthe length of the button-bole, or, in other words, the position which itoccupies at the instant the feed of the clamp-plate is stopped, and Ihave shown'it, instead of being directly attached to plated' or formedintegral therewith,which it may be, as formed upon the end of aslide-plate, d, which is movable on the plate d' by a screw, f, attachedby a collar or in any other way to the plate, and having a screwstemwhich screws into a nut carried by the slide-plate. The slide-plate alsocarries a pointer or indicator, f', and the bed-plate has a scale,fwhich indicates, in connection with the pointer, the position to whichthe tripping-stop should be noved to stitch a buttonhole of any givenlength. At the front end of the cam-plate slot I have arranged the stopG, which is attached to the front edge of the slideplate g. This plateis attached to the bed or bed-plate in a manner to permit it to be movedbackward and forward, and it has a nut, g', which receives thescrew-thread 9 of the operating-screw 9 This Operating-screw is attachedby acollar to the bed-plate of the machine. The slide-plate also carriesa pointer or indicator, gwhich is adapted to be used in connection witha scale, 9 on the bed-plate to u indicate the length of the stitching ofthe button-hole, the movement of the stop and indicator being of coursegoverned by the scale, which correctly represent-s the position whichthe stop should occupy in adjusting the clampplate to stitch accuratelyvarious lengths of button-bole.

It will be seen that the length of the stitchforming bar or stay can bevaried by changing the position of the end of thelink e upon the arm eof the lever upon said lever, the inward movement of the link toward thefulcrum of said lever giving a shorter bar, and an out- `neath it.

ward movement giving a longer bar; and the lever is represented asprovided wit-h a slot to permt these movements of the end of thelink inrelation thereto. r

In operation, the front stop isadjusted to bring the indicator gopposite the line of the scale bearing the length of the button-hole tobe stitched. The clamping -plate is moved backward to bring itsspring-pin in contact with the front stop. The material is placed on theplate and clamped. The rear trippingstop is also properly adjusted forthe length of the button-hole to be stitched. The machine is then set inoperation and the clamping-plate is moved and turned,as described insaid application, and the spring-roll b' bearing against its edge servesto keep it in contact with the throat-plate. Upon the completion of thestitching of the last side of the button-hole the edge of theclamp-plate comes in contact with the t'ippingstop and moves it backwardsufficientl y to trip the reciprocating or vibrating stud or pin E, andthis backward movement of the stud also stops the feed by disengagingthe feed pawl from the feed ratchet-wheel, and holding it disengaged andthe feed-wheel coming to rest. The springpin c is held in position bythe recess or groove in the feed-wheel c and the side edges of theclamping-plate slot, which enables me to use the pin as the fulorum ofthe clamping-plate and these parts as the pivot or fulcrumholder. TheVibrating barring-pin having, been released by the latch, moves upwardand im me'- diately enters the recess 0 and engages the shoulders oredges thereof and moves theplate laterally and holds it while the needletakes a stitch in the part of the material brought be- It then, upon theupward movement of the needle, moves backward and returns the plate toits original or normal position, or allows the spring-roll b to doso,when the needle makes another stitch through the portion of thematerial which is then brought beneath it, which is across upon the lineof the button-bole cut. The pin is then again moved to again move thevibrating plate, and the needle takes another stitch, and this backwardand forward movement pf the clampingplate and of the material heldthereby continues until enough cross-stitches have been taken to makethe bar. After the barring, and upon the turning of the clamping-plateto bring it into its normal position, the inclined surface 0 of theclamp-plate is brought in contact with the upper surface of the pin orstud, which is somewhat rounded or inclined at that point, and ispressed downward thereby sufficiently to cause its holding-latch tooperate to hold it locked down, and this operation of the latch bringsthe tripping-stop into operative position and also uncovers the feedratchet-wheel or releases the pawl, so that thepawl upon the starting ofthe ina chine is in position to operate the feed. I have called the pinorstud Ean oscillating or vibrating stud. It does not, however, have IIOa continuous oscillating or vibrating motion, for it has a period ofrest at the end of each movement in one direction sufficientlylong toenable the needle to make a stitch.

I would state that I do not coufine myself to the especial form orapplication of the devices herein described for stopping the feed of theclamp-plate and for automatically bring- :ing into operation theoscillating movement or feed of the clamp-plate, but may use anymechanical equivalent for said devices.

I would further state that I do not limit the application or use of thisinvention to the especial form of button-hole-stitching mechanisn hereindescribed, as the same results may be produced by the same orsubstantially the same organization of mechanism upon otherbutton-hole-stitching machines.

It will be seen that the throat-plate has the recess h h' upon its side,into which the edges h of the throat-plate enter; also, that the recessi' is sufficiently deep to permit the lateral movement of theclamp-plate in relation to the throat in the operation of bari-ing. Inother words, while the clamp-plate is held down by the extension of thethroat-plate over it, and is guided in its movement by the contact ofthe edge of the slot with the edge of the throat-plate as it is moved orheld against the same by the spring-held roller, yet the slot and recessbear such relation to each other that the clamp-plate may have a lateralmovement in relation to the throatplate, the recess 'h' beingsufliciently deep or the slot sufficiently wide to allow this lateralmovement to take place.

The throat-plate or button is provided with a deep recess, in order thatthe clamp-plate may be oscillated or moved during the operation ofbarrng the button-bole. The movement of the clamp-plate during thestitching of the sides and eye of the button-bole is continuous, and theplatc is not oscillated, the needle being moved laterally to first enterthe button-bole and then the material in forming the stitch. This methodof moving the needle laterally is described in the application abovereferred to, and is common in buttonhole-stitching machines. Thebarring-stitch is, however, longer than the stitch used for finishingthe sides and eye, and, if preferable, it is made about double thelength of these stitches. In order that a stitch of this length may beformed, it is necessary to oscillate or move the clamping-plate at theend of the stitching of the second or last side of the button-hole, andit is for this reason that the button or throat-plate is provided with adeep recess.

The machine takes as many stitches for forming the bar as may bedesired. and the machine is then stopped in the ordinary manner and theclamp-plate returned by hand to its original positionjthe spring-pinbeing lfted from the end of the guiding-slot and inserted into the frontend of said slot.

The subject-matter of this application was first described in myapplication forLetters Patent of the United States, filed February 1,1886, Serial No. 190,525, and has been removed therefrom by amendment;and I would say that I do not claim herein, broadly, first, areciprocating needle-bar and needle and means for giving it a lateral orout-and-in motion at right angles to the path of its reciprocatingmotion and the line of feed of aworkholding clamp,in combination withsaid clamp, a work-clamp feeding device for moving the work-clamp in theline of the length of the button-bole, a support for the work-clamp, anintermittingly-Operating stud, block, or post adapted to engage saidsupport, and means to move the same and the work-clamp back and -forthunder the needle to increase the length of the overlying stitchesforming the stay or bar at the end of the button hole; second,stitch-forming mechanism,in conbination with a clamp-plate orwork-holding device and means for feeding forward the same during thestitching of the sides and eye of a button-bole, mechanism fordisengaging the clamp-feeding device from theclamp-plate, and anautomatically-acting device for imparting an internittingly oscillatingor vibrating movement to the clamp-plate at the end of its forwardfeeding movement for producing the barr-ingstitches of a button-bole;thir-d, the combination of a. movable plate supporting the workclampingdevices, the throat-plate, a feeding device for feeding theclamping-plate to present the work to the sewing mechanism, thespring-held 'roll adaptedto bear against the edge of the clamping-plate,andthe intermittingly-moving stud, pin, or other moving part arranged toeugage the clanping-plate and move it automatically at the end of thefeed movement.

Having thus fully described my invention, I claim and desire to secureby Letters Patent of the United States- 1. The combination, in abutton-hole-stitching machine, of the stitcling forming devices, aclamp-plate and clamp, feeding devices for feeding the clamp-platecontinuously forward during the stitching of the sides and eye, atripping stop or block operated or moved by the clamp-plate, devicesoperated by said tripping stop or block for disconnecting the feed-Operating devices to stop the forward movement of the clamp-plate, and adevice for giving an ntermittent oscillating or vibrating movement tothe clamp-plate automatically brought into operation by the movement ofthe tripping stop or block, substantially as described.

2. The combination, in a machine for stitching button-holes, of amovable plate having a guiding-pin, the said pin, Work holding orclamping devices carricd by said feeding devices for moving and feedingsaid plate to present the work to the sewing meohanism, the feedmechanism and guide-slot adapted to hold the end of the said pin at theend of the feed movement of the plate, the devices for oper- IIO atingor moving the said clamping-plate laterally under the needle and uponthe said pin as a center, all substantially as described.

3. In a button-hole-stitching machine, the combination of theclamp-plate, feeding device for feeding said clamp-plate operated by aratchet-wheel and reciprocating pawl, a post, block, or arm adapted tobe moved by contact with the clamp-plate therewith, and connectingdevices connecting it with the ratchetwheel and pawl, whereby upon thecontact of the clamp-plate with the. post, block, or arm the pawl isdisengaged and held disengaged from the ratchet, substantially asdescribed.

4. The combination, in a button-hole-stitching machine, of aclamp-plateand mechanism for feeding it, a block, post, or arm adapted to be movedthereby, a latch connected with said block, post, or arm and controllingthe operative position of the device for oscillating or 'reciprocatingthe clamp plate, and said clamp-plate oseillating and reciprocatingdevice, substantially as described." i

5. The combination, in a machine for stitching button-holes, of theclamp-plate, the tripping block, post, or arm, operated upon the contactof the clamp-plate therewith, and an intermittently-reciprocating post,spindle, or block, for reciprocating the clamp-plate, and mechanismconnecting it with the tripping block, post, or arm, substantially asand for the purposes described.

6. The combination of the clamping-plate holding or supporting thework-clamping devices, devices for moving the same to present the workto the stitching mechanism, and an intermittingly reciprocating post,stud, or block operated by mechanism, substantially as specified, andadapted to engage the clampplate and move it, means ior moving saidpost, block, or stud vertically in its support, a spring for moving itin one direction, and a latch for looking it down against thespring-pressure, all substantially as described.

7. The combination, in a button-holestitching machine, of theclamping-plate, an intermittingly-reciprocating block, post, or studhaving a vertical movement in its carrier or support, and mechanism forreciprocating the same, a spring for moving and holding it upward inrelation thereto, and a latch for holding it in its lowest position inrelation to the spring, all substantially as described.

8. The combination of the clamping-plate, movable as described, andhaving the inelined surface 0 with the vertically-movableintermittingly-reciprocating stud, block, or post E, substantially asdescribed.

9. The combination of the clamp plate, movable as described, having theinclined surface, with the vertically-movableintermittingly-reciproeated block, stud, or post and mechanism forreciprocating it, and the latch d*, all substantially as described.

10. The combination of the clamp-plate, the slide-bar having a blockprovided with a recess or hole, the pin or post E, having the section e,which enters said recess or hole, and mechanism for intermittentlyreciprocating the pin or post, and the latch-block e the spring 6 andthe automatic latch di all substantially as described.

11. The combination of the clamp-plate, the slide plate or blocksupporting the pin, post, or stud E, the cam e, the lever e, and theconnecting-link e substantially as described.

12. ,The combination of the clamp-plate, the tripping-block D, theslide-plate d', the reciprocating block carrying the vertieally-movablepin or post E, and the latch (P, substantially as described.

13. The combination of the clamp-plate, the block D, the slide block orbar d the arm 'and the covering plate or shield d, adapted,

upon the movement of the slide-bar, to be brought over the feedratchet-wheel and to form a surface upon which the pawl may move, andthe said ratchet-wheel and reciprocating 'pawl, substantially asdescribed.

14:. The combination, in a machine for stitching button-holes, of ablock or stop, D, and devices for intermittingly reciprocating theclamp-plate, adapted to be moved into operative position upon therelease of a latch, said latch connected with said block or stop, afeeddisconnecting device for disconnecting the feed-Operating mechanismfrom the feed roll or wheel, also connected With said block, Wherebyupon the movement of said block the operation of feeding is discontinuedand the clamp-plate-oscillating device automatically brought intooperation, all substantially as described.

15. The combination,in abutton-hole-stitching machine, of theclamp-plate, the block or stop D and means for adjustingit, substantially as described.

16. The combination,in a button-hole-stitching machine, of an adjustableback-stop, a pointer, f', and the scale f and the clampplate,iallsubstantially as described.

17. The combination,in a button-hole-stitching machine, of theclamp-plate slot b with the adjustablefront stop, G, and theclamp-plate, all substantially as described.

18. The combination,in a button-hole-stitching machine, of thework-plate having the slot b, the stop G, and the adjusting-serew 9 andthe clamp-plate, substantially as described.

19. The combination,in abutton-hole-stitching machine, of the frontstop, G, theindicator g*, and the scale 9 with a movable clampplate,substantially as described.

20. The combination,in a button-hole-stitching machine, of theclamp-plate, the trippingblock D, a latching device for bringing intooperative position a reciprocating block for intermittingly moving theclamp-plate in the operation of barring or staying the buttonhole, thesaid reciprocating block and a latching device for holding thetripping-block D locked back during the said barring movement of theclamp, substantially as described.

21. In a machine for stitching button-holes,

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the combination of stitching devices, a movable plate supporting thework clamping and holding and p'esenting devices, and feeding mechanismfor automatically moving the plate to present the work to the stitchingmechanism, a tripping device for tripping the feed- Operating devices, adevice for engaging the clamp-plate and intermittingly moving the samein the operation of bari-ing or staying the button-hole, all combinedand arranged so that the stitching of the sides and eye is followed bythe immediate automatic formng or stitching of the bar or stay, wherebythe entire stitched and bari-ed orstayed button-hole is made in onecontinuous operation of the machine, all substantiallyas described..

22. The combinatiomin abutton-hole-stitching machine, of thestitch-forning devices, the th'oat-plate or button having the deeprecess h', the clamp-platc having a slot sufilciently J AMES H. REED.

Witnesses:

F. F. RAYMOND, 2d, J. M. DOLAN.

